IT AIN'T NECESSARILY SO

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The title of this rant is from Gershwin's stupendous 1935 opera Porgy and Bess. I will use it to build upon the concept I brought forward in last month's rant, namely that being native does not mean a species is a good ornamental choice. Yes, that "native" might be pretty but if used in the wrong way or place perhaps not and behavior is every bit as important as looks, I dare say almost always more so.

I will profile four Midwest native plants to drive home my point. I like them (i.e., find them attractive and interesting in their natural settings) and have tried using all four as garden plants. There are many others that I could employ to convey the same message (i.e., denialism and it ain't necessarily so). Desire is a strong and potentially blinding influence. I regularly cite Col. Jessep's telling line voiced near the end of A Few Good Men, "You [most people] can't handle the truth." So we invent an answer more pleasing but it often has little to do with reality.

JEWELWEED (Impatiens spp.) - Our two native species of Impatiens have lovely flowers and curious contorted fleshy fruits which are the basis for the other common name touch-me-not. When mature the fruit explosively (but silently) contract on contact thusly throw disperse the seeds. Moreover, if you scratch the green textured surface of its seed you will be surprised to see that the underlying tissue (the cotyledon) is a beautiful light blue. I have tried both the orange (I. capensis) and yellow (I. pallida) species in various locations and associations at my place but the look is not appealing, especially after flowering. Bluntly, as with many native species, they look and grow better in a natural setting, in this case along streams or other water features, there more robust as well as more floriferous thus more aesthetically pleasing. SIDEBAR: During my many years as a field botanist I had far too many encounters with stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). Related, it is widely believed that jewelweed is uniquely special for alleviating or reducing the unpleasantness caused by stinging nettle (i.e., when its crushed stem is rubbed on the afflicted area). However, I discovered many years ago that it ain't necessarily so. The remedy, the trick, is any kind of wetting (e.g., water or spit will do) and the rubbing, not just the juicy jewelweed stem sap. Another myth debunked, yet the jewelweed's folksy magic connection, which is only kinda true, is too deeply ingrained, part of the zeitgeist. I suspect the connection has as much or more to due with the fact the species are found in the same habitat often growing together therefore convenient. When stung by stinging nettle you want immediate relief.

GLADE MALLOW (Napaea dioica) - In my Ranting book (p. xvi) I used a childhood pic of me (age one) in my paternal grandmother's south central (Flora) Illinois flower garden which had a glade mallow, its large dissected leaves prominent in the background. Accordingly, I wanted glade mallow as a heritage plant for my garden and would love to know the source of her specimen, but never will. Another thing lost to time, the fate of everything -- varying only as to what degree and how long before all connections are severed. Reality. Yes, even Elvis and Watergate will eventually disappear into the sinkhole of time.

Napaea is, when flowering and in fruit, a 7-8 feet tall forb (i.e., a non-graminoid herbaceous perennial). The species name dioica means "two houses" and denotes that the individual plant will be female or male (genetically predetermined). Furthermore, as glade mallow is a type of mustard (Brassicaceae)*, I was concerned there could be an issue with cabbage butterfly caterpillar damage. But since the usually excellent Mo Bot Kemper Center Plant Finder website states "no serious problems" I felt confident my concern was unfounded, that glade mallow would be a good choice. I was happy to obtain a start of glade mallow from a friend, who had been under governmental control for four decades :), only to discover that the leaves are quickly rendered to a gross withered brown lacework skeleton of veins (see pic below) by sawfly larvae. I already knew that glade mallow does not like being transplanted once established, part of the problem with acquiring a specimen, the other being that it is uncommon (in nature and commerce). * ERRATUM - I have always presumed, based on the general appearance of the flowers and scapes, that glade mallow was a mustard. A friend contacted me today with the correction. Glade mallow is in the Malvaceae (mallow family) thus I should have been more concerned with leaf miners and rust infection, the prime problems of that family, not cabbage butterfly caterpillars.

Know that: (1) Sawfly larvae are wasplike (Hymenopterans) thus BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) powder does not affect them, but insecticidal soap, horticultural oil (both organic) or any product containing spinosad will. Spinosad is an insecticide produced from a soil inhabiting bacterium but spinosad is highly toxic to bees. With the organic options be sure to coat both the upper (adaxial) and lower (abaxial) leaf surface, and repeat periodically. (2) The water spraying remedy suggested online does not work, and the find and remove all the culprits by hand method is challenging thus ineffective. (3) Neonics will work but DON'T use since they are a persistent non-selective systemic. (4) After the leaves are devoured by the larvae the glade mallow will rather quickly produce new basal growth, with the same fate unless an insecticide is used. (5) Glade mallow does better in partial shade, at least as regards sawfly herbivory, because the sawfly smartly avoids shady locations for laying since the larvae develop more slowly there, if at all. (6) My nearby Oregon grape holly (Mahonia aquifolium) had for several years prior been ravaged by the sawfly larvae. The larvae seem to prefer glade mallow thus serving as an alternate attractant and spared the Mahonia. This behavior mimics the effect of evening primrose on Japanese beetles. (7) Claims that the tall slender terminal panicles of small white flowers are fragrant is overhyped. Fragrance is a factor I favor in my garden and on a 0-10 scale I'd give glade mallow a one. A fair assessment based on firsthand experience. (8) The common name is misleading as the plant is not associated with rocky glades, rather open sites with moist soil although the species is infrequent throughout its range. (9) To get good growth or to just keep the plant alive the site will need to be prevented from becoming dry. Put glade mallow in a spot that can be easily splashed when the hot dry periods occur. And (10) Napaea is not a plant for everyone, more likely to be appreciated by those with an interest in unique native rarities. -- The big leaves at the bottom of the right pic below is a self-seeded young woodland tobacco specimen (Nicotiana sylvestris), a nocturnally fragrant plant I relish.

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LEATHERWOOD (Dirca palustris) - The only native midwestern member of the Daphne plant family (Thymeleaceae). The common name is in reference to the elastic nature of its new branches, which can be tied in a knot without breaking. The specific epithet refers to its preference for moist soil (but not swampy) habitat. This shrub rarely gets 10 feet tall and its unusual small brown cased and pale-yellow flowers (see pic below) are produced in spring before the plant's leaves emerge. This behavior is called precocious or hysteranthy. The species is notoriously difficult to grow since the soil must be constantly moist or the plant will quickly perish. Once established the plant will tolerate dry conditions better. It is a novelty species that one will rarely find in a garden and never at a garden center. Its leaves turn a pleasing yellow in autumn if you are fortunately enough to keep it alive. Moreover, the bark and leaves can cause skin irritation in some people. I had a habit of tying a leatherwood twig into a loose overhand knot whenever I was fortunate to be in a wooded ravine featuring this rarity. A sort of "the Mad Botanist was here." Always wondered if anyone ever discovered "the sign" I left. SIDEBAR: The absolutely stunning and wonderfully fragrant Burkwood (Carol Mackie) Daphne is in the same family and even more temperamental -- prone to sudden death. I have given up trying for both.

BUTTONBUSH (Cephalanthus occidentalis) - A shrub found in swamps. And, like all woody plants, it has indeterminate growth (i.e., does not stop growing {getting bigger} unless dormant or until dead). Buttonbush's produces curiously beautiful ping-pong-sized pure white inflorescence with extra long styles (see pic below) thus the common name. They are uniquely attractive. There is even a pink cultivar -- it attracts pollinators, too, but like the normal form, only for the week or so it has functioning flowers. Otherwise the plant is plain. Little fall color and the growing season leaves will have some or lots of unsightly fungal spot browning, especially if humidity is high. Post flowering the resulting fruit balls are yellow-brown, much smaller than the strange flower heads, and unremarkable, and your specimen will be almost always be leafless (or nearly so) by late August. The genus name (Cephalanthus) means "head flower" in reference to the ball-like flower clusters. Moreover, buttonbush branches are prone to snapping and many of its twigs die which necessitates a lot of pruning to keep it looking tidy. (See also my lost leader Addendum on this website). Its breadth and form along with the fragile branches make buttonbush a pain to mow under despite the fact I up-limb to provide clearance. My decade plus old specimen, even though regularly shaped, is still already 12 feet tall and 15 wide. I like the open wild look but I have the space (my place is nearly 3 acres). Most people would not appreciate the wild beauty.

I have heard people suggest that buttonbush is a good plant to remove (like a sponge) the excess water on your property. I hear the same regarding weeping willow, but it is wishful thinking and pure nonsense! I like buttonbush and have had one in an open area prone to sudden but short duration flooding. It has been there for over a decade, not because it will "suck-up the flood water" rather it is appropriate habitat, although it can tolerate (be grown in) drier locations, too, thus drought tolerant.

Buttonbush is not a plant for everyone, especially those with limited space or if wanting long duration or multiple season appeal. I was a natural areas botanist and have plenty of space. Additionally, I am a hardcore gardener (i.e., I enjoy the associated work) and I also enjoy having things in my garden that are unusual and special -- the all too common meatball shrub, lollipop tree, Darwin tulip landscape is boring (i.e., the standard suburban look). I'd literally rather look at a dead tree! Moreover, this shrub is an example where I think it best not to under-mulch (i.e., do not keep the ground beneath finely manicured). Accordingly, although I normally do not promote grow-throughs, buttonbush looks better (more naturalistic) with some basal associates like goldenrod and ironweed, so I leave them when they appear. They help add more interest especially since they flower well after buttonbush. -- Mother Nature is my co-gardener and coach. She is the best, especially regarding siting (placement and spacing, what and where)! You would be wise to follow suit.

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In closing and again, NATIVE often does not mean what most people think or have been told it means (both often wantingly made-up), nor does it imply that a species is automatically a good choice for a garden ornamental, and the reasons can be several. REALITY! For example, some of the worst garden weeds are native species. Know that I occasionally offer a weed class and half of the species on the associated handout are NATIVE, some of them beautiful or otherwise appealing. I use / permit quite a few to stay because they add character to my garden -- many are as nice as the store bought exotics and those natives which are well-behaved. Again, FACT! Moreover, appearance and behavior are separate factors and BOTH should be considered BEFORE acquiring and planting. Maintenance can be an aspect of both.

Try to avoid being delusional or a denialist. Ignoring or wanting something to be real does NOT make it more likely to be so, even with hard wishing. IT IS WHAT IT IS, regardless of your want. Its about being well-informed and objective, good judgment. Both are signs of a better person and a good gardener. And realize that your truth and reality/fact may sometimes have little in common. We are good at making things up to support a narrative we want and really good at then believing (and blindly defending) the made-up, the fiction, the ofttimes half-true or out-and-out lie. And as Dostoyevsky told us a century and a half ago, it is easier for a man to lie to himself than anyone. And having done so he impairs his ability to discern the real truth.

There are many appropriate wisdom quotes I could use to finish. I considered a goodie from Voltaire or Classical Greece but have chosen instead one of my contemporary favs. It's not what you know that gets you in trouble, it's what you know for sure that just ain't so (Adam McKay, not Mark Twain -- a gotcha attribution from the intro of McKay's superb 2015 movie The Big Short). Always remember when being given advice, it ain't necessarily so! Consider the source and strive to be truly objective. Validate BEFORE accepting/believing and behaving foolishly. You will be better off, so will we.